By Mark Gittelman
In most cases, when I guess or even take an educated guess, I pay the price. Even though my educated guess comes with 24 years of hands on experience it is wrong nearly 50% of the time. This means I have just increased my diagnosis time, and wound up replacing a part that was not required.
This brings me back to the proper troubleshooting of car problems. Get a good auto repair manual and perform all the step-by-step diagnosis that the troubleshooting manual provides. When you feel like you have found the problem take the extra step and test the individual component.
For example, let's say you are diagnosing and overheating condition. Your educated guess says that you should replace the thermostat. Why not go the extra step and actually test, the operation of the thermostat by throwing it in some boiling water and observing if it opens? If the thermostat does open while it is soaking in the boiling water you know that this was not your overheating problem. Using the same example, you may feel that the electric fan motor needs to be replaced. Again, let's take the extra step and test the operation of the electric fan motor. Applying 12 V to the power side of the fan motor and grounding the negative side can test the cooling fan operation. If the fan motor kicks on and runs, you know that this is not the problem with your overheating.
The next step would be to test what turns on the cooling fan motor. In most cases, there will be a temperature switch and a fan relay that complete the circuit to the electric motor. Both the temperature switch and relay can be tested.
As you can see from the above examples, when you are troubleshooting car problems, there may be multiple answers to what is causing the problem. Just guessing, and throwing parts at the vehicle may cost you more than if you took the car into a repair center and had somebody else do the work.
The reason that we work on our own car and perform do-it-yourself auto repairs is to save money, down time on the vehicle and learn something about the troubleshooting of car problems in the process. Using the above example again, let's say that your vehicle overheating problem was a poor connection to the temperature switch that operates to cooling fan motor, which I have seen many times. If you replaced the cooling fan motor and the thermostat, you have just spent about $300 in parts and a full day's work on things that did not need to be replaced. Your overheating problem could have been solved for free with no parts by repairing the loose connection.
So to review, let’s make sure before we start the do-it-yourself car repair that we are mentally prepared to diagnose it correctly. And only replaced the parts that are needed. Saving money and repairing the car can be a very satisfying experience. Do not cheat yourself out of this euphoric feeling by throwing un needed Parts at your vehicle.
Mark R Gittelman is an ASE Certified Master Mechanic. Mark can be your friend in the auto repair business. For more free info visit his automotive information blog. Or see mark's new squidoo page that answers online auto repair questions
Auto Repair Manual
Tuesday, January 11, 2022
Monday, January 10, 2022
How To Repair Your Car's Power Windows
By Matthew Keegan
Auto Repair Manual
As you’re driving down the turnpike and approaching the tollbooth, you reach for the switch to lower your window and nothing happens. The switch moves but the window does not budge. Not even a noise from the window motor can be heard which strongly suggests to you that the device is not functioning. You must stop your car and open up the door to pay the attendant before continuing on your trip. Thoughts of an expensive car repair bill are dancing through your head, putting you in a foul mood and tempering the anticipated fun of your getaway weekend. Don’t despair: you can repair the power window yourself and save a bundle over expensive dealership charges. Let’s take a look at the steps you can take to fix the problem yourself and save a lot of cash in the process.
Before assuming that the window regulator must be replaced you should first rule out the possibility of dirty electrical contacts. On most cars the main power for all switches goes through the master switch located at the driver’s console. Sometimes the switch is dirty causing the window to malfunction. If this is the case, take the necessary steps to clean the contact and your problem should be resolved.
Should you determine that the contacts are clean and your switch is functioning, then it is likely that the motor has burned out and is in need of replacing. Whether you are installing a Honda window regulator or a Volkswagen window regulator, or a regulator for any other make the steps involved in replacing a window regulator are usually quite similar:
1. Remove the door panel for the affected window.
2. Locate and remove the bolts holding the regulator to the door; it is likely you will have to manually lower the window in order to access the bolts.
3. Remove the old regulator, disconnect all wiring, and replace the old regulator with a new one you have purchased from a parts supplier. Shop online to find the best value as you will pay a mint if you order one through a dealership.
4. Tighten the bolts holding the new regulator and reinstall the moisture barrier. Make sure all the wires are put back in the door before closing the door panel.
5. Engage the power window switch and the new regulator should work unimpeded.
Of course, follow your car’s repair manual for specific instructions.
I’ve given to you a general outline to convince you that this is a task that even a novice mechanic can handle – in other words: you can do it! By handling the problem yourself, you’ll save plenty of money by avoiding garages who will mark up the replacement part as well as tack on several hours of labor costs to your bill. Shop online to compare prices and to receive the best shipping and handling arrangements available.
Matt is a contributing writer for Car Parts Stuff.
Auto Repair Manual
Sunday, January 9, 2022
Auto Air Conditioning Repair 101
By Darell L. Rains
When your car or truck A/C is not blowing "cold air", the first thought is to panic. $$$$ signs are going through your mind. Your A/C is broken and the repair is going to be expensive. This article takes the mystery out of automotive air conditioning and serves as a primer so that you can make common repairs yourself and save MONEY on professional repairs.
A/C Principles
There are books and publications that contain volumes of information on the subject of air conditioning repair. This information is often too technical for the you to learn how-to fix your auto air conditioning system.
In the nutshell, here is all that you need to know about the fundamentals of refrigeration so that you can fix your auto air conditioning system yourself.
Air conditioning is the process in which air inside the passenger compartment is cooled, dried, and circulated. Heat is removed from inside the vehicle and transferred to the outside air.
All air conditioners whether, it is an auto A/C, household refrigerator or home HVAC, work on the same principles. Namely, a liquid refrigerant is changed to a gas and then back to a liquid. If a change-of-state of the refrigerant is to take place, heat transfer must take place. The two (2) rules that apply to refrigerant are:
1. Refrigerant in a gaseous state collects, absorbs, and holds heat.
2. Refrigerant in a liquid state releases that heat.
A/C Operation and Components
For your auto A/C to blow "cold air", R-134A refrigerant must pass through and change state in three (3) components, one (1) receiver-dryer, and one (1) expansion valve that makes up the closed auto air conditioning system. The components of the system are:
1. Compressor - A device that pressurizes the heated refrigerant..
2. Condenser - A radiator for refrigerant that transfers the heat that was absorbed in the passenger compartment to the cooler air.
3. Evaporator - Is a small radiator located under dash in the passenger compartment. Liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator creates a pressure loss. The liquid refrigerant absorbs heat from the air blowing across the evaporator. It then boils and changes state to vapor before it enters the suction port of the compressor.
4. Receiver-Dryer - Is a canister that stores the liquid refrigerant when the compressor is not running. It contains a desiccant that removes moisture from the system.
5. Expansion Valve - Is a metering device that controls the amount of refrigerant to the evaporator.
A/C Quick Check
A check that can easily be made to check the health of the A/C system is the "feel check". With engine running, turn the auto A/C control to "ON" and the blower on "high". Take a test drive to warm the engine until the A/C system pressures stabilize. Raise the hood. With the A/C "On", locate the large tubing connected and routed from the compressor (low side) to the expansion valve (inlet side) of the evaporator. Next, locate the small tubing that is connected to the discharge-side of the compressor and routed to the outlet side of the evaporator. When you feel these two (2) lines, you should observe these results:
1. The low-side line should feel "cool" to the touch.
2. The high-side line should feel "warm" to the touch.
If the high-side tubing is not warm and the low-side is not cool, further tests will have to be made as the system is not doing any work. There is an internal problem; such as, a defective component or a leak in your A/C system.
Testing A/C System
Before system temperature tests can be made, a checklist should be followed (below) to setup for testing the A/C system:
1. Set the A/C "ON-OFF" switch to "ON".
2. Set the temperature control to "maximum cooling".
3. Set the blower on "high" or the highest number on the control switch.
4. Temperature inside passenger compartment should be stable and getting cooler.
5. Engine speed must be a minimum of 1500 rpm's.
6. All windows should be be in the "UP" position.
Check Temperature
Your compact car or truck has a small capacity A/C system and a loss of "cooling" would be more noticeable than a larger capacity auto A/C system. If a noticeable loss of "cooling" capacity is noticed, a temperature check at the vent registers should be made. This check can be made with an instant read or digital temperature thermometer.. The discharge air from the vents in the passenger compartment should range from 38 to 42 degrees F.
A/C System Diagnosis
Assuming that the discharge air test measured at the vent registers is out-of-range, a system pressure test will have to be made. Professional A/C technicians connect a tool known as the manifold gauge set to the "low" and "high" side service valves of the system. For you to diagnose and look inside the A/C, it will be necessary to become proficient in the use of the manifold gauge set.
A manifold gauge set that is suitable for the needs can be purchased at most auto supply stores and Internet A/C tool and supply store fronts for less than $50.00. TIP: Look for a gauge set that has a built-in sight glass.
Locate the "low" and "high" side service valves.. Connect the hoses (they are a snap connector fit) to the service valves in the following manner:.
1. Connect the blue hose of the gauge set to the "low-side" service valve of the compressor.
2. Connect the red hose of the gauge set to the "high-side service valve of the compressor.
3. The yellow hose of the gauge set is connected to a vacuum pump or a refrigerant can to add refrigerant to the system. The yellow hose is not connected to the system at this time.
Static Test
If you find an out-of-range temperature reading, the manifold gauge set should be installed on the "low" and "high-side" service valves. With the engine "OFF" and the compressor and clutch not engaged, the blue "low-side" and red "high-side" gauges should show equal readings of approximately 80 to 120psi. These readings would indicate that there is a refrigerant charge in your A/C system. If the readings were 50psi on each gauge, this would indicate that there is refrigerant in the system but a LOW CHARGE. If the readings were 10 to 20psi on each gauge would indicate that there is little or no refrigerant in your A/C system.
Engine Running Test
Start the engine,.turn the A/C switch"ON" with the blower on "high" and run for a minimum of fifteen (15) minutes. Observe the reading on the manifold gauge set. TIP: A manifold gauge set with a built-in sight glass (mentioned above) will save you diagnostic time as most A/C systems do not have a sight glass built-in the receiver-dryer on the high side of the system.
With this feature, you look for bubbling refrigerant oil and refrigerant in the sight glass on the manifold. Oil moving through the glass would indicate that the compressor and clutch are engaged. Refrigerant is being moved from the low-side throughout the A/C system in the refrigeration cycle.
Low Charge
With the engine running, A/C switch "ON", and the manifold gauge set installed, a "low-side" pressure reading of 20psi over 150psi would indicate that your A/C system has a LOW CHARGE. The low reading of 150psi on the "high-side" gauge would be the tell tale that the system is doing very little work. A LOW CHARGE usually is an indicator that there is a refrigerant leak from a component on the "low" or "high-side" of the A/C system. A refrigerant leak in the system would have to be repaired for the A/C system to blow "cold air". TIP: REFRIGERANT DOES NOT WEAR OUT, IT LEAKS OUT. Some symptoms to look for a LOW CHARGE condition are:
1. Compressor clutch short cycling.
2. Clutch will not engage.
3. Little or no cooling.
4. Oily residue on hoses and components.
Leak Checking
For your A/C system to blow "cold air", refrigerant leaks will have to be found and repaired. Usually, leaks in an A/C system are minor and can be fixed with a screwdriver or hand tools. Most A/C systems use schrader valves for easy connection of the manifold gauge set. That said, these are no more than overgrown bicycle valves that use a valve core. When you are checking a system, the valves are the first place check for a leak. Other targets; such as, oil residue on hoses connected to the compressor is the second place that should be checked. TIP: When tightening the bolts to the suction and discharge ports of the compressor with hand tools, do not over tighten. Rubber 0-rings are placed on the suction and discharge ports of the compressor for sealing. The seals will create a leak when over tightened. Only tighten snug.
When your A/C system has a LOW CHARGE, a refrigerant charge will have to added to check for the leak. Refrigerant that contains a dye for leak checking a system is used for this purpose. The manifold gauge set, refrigerant, and a can tap valve will be needed to add refrigerant to check for a leak in the system.
Connect the manifold gauge set as discussed above. Connect the yellow hose to the can tap valve and front seat (turn clockwise) the valve. Close the blue gauge on the manifold gauge set. Open the valve on the can tap valve. Slowly open the valve on the blue or "low-side" gauge and let the refrigerant flow from the refrigerant can into the system until you see a reading of 60psi on the "low-side" gauge. TIP: Placing the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water will allow the vapor refrigerant to enter the A/C system quicker. WARNING: Do not invert the refrigerant can. Doing so will allow liquid refrigerant to enter the system resulting in a ruined compressor.
Professional A/C technicians use an electronic leak detector to find leaks in an system. Use a battery-powered UV leak detector kit and special UV glasses. This kit can be purchased at auto supply stores and Internet A/C supply store fronts.
The UV glasses should be worn when checking for leaks. Simply place the tip of the detector on a fitting or connection to each component to be checked in the A/C system. When a leak is found, a light greenish color will be seen through the UV glasses.
Air Flow
An often overlooked cause of your A/C system not blowing "cold air" is debris that clogs the condenser. Bugs, plastic bags, and leaves from city and highway driving will prevent air from passing through the fins of the condenser. The condenser should be cleaned with a cleaning solvent. Bent fins on the condenser should be straightened with a fin comb.
Restrictions
A restriction is a condition that is a blockage. Usually, it is traced to the outlet side of the condenser. Some form of debris has formed causing a restriction of refrigerant flow through the condenser tubes.. The passages in the tubes of most condensers that are used in compact cars and trucks are very small. An effective way to diagnose a restriction in your A/C system is the manifold gauge set. The "high-side" (red) gauge would move into the DANGER zone, over 300psi.
System Repairs
When a system has been opened, and a component removed, moisture has entered the system. For your A/C to blow "cold air", that moisture will have to be removed with the aid of a vacuum pump.
At this stage of the repair, you have two (2) choices to finish the repair of your A/C system. The first choice is take the car or truck to an A/C professional. At their shop, they will evacuate the system, check your work, and recharge the A/C system for a fee.
The second choice is to repair your A/C system yourself. You will need to borrow or buy a vacuum pump to finish the repair. A small 2-stage vacuum pump that is designed for automobile refrigeration systems is available for less than $100.00.
After replacing a component, moisture has entered the system during the repair. For the A/C system to blow "cold air" the moisture will have to be removed. Install the manifold gauge set to your car or truck service valves as described above. After repairs, your A/C system is evacuated and recharged by applying the below steps:
1. Blue hose to the "low-side" service valve.
2. Red hose to the "high-side service valve.
3. Yellow hose to the suction port of the vacuum pump.
4. Close the hand valve to the vacuum pump.
5. Back seat (open) the hand valves on the blue and red gauges of the manifold gauge set.
6. Connect the electrical power to the vacuum pump.
7. Open the hand valve on the vacuum pump.
8. Run the vacuum pump for three (3) minutes.
9. The needle on the "low-side" gauge (blue) show should be in a vacuum at 28.3hg.
10. A system with no leaks will pull a vacuum of 28.3hg in three (3) minutes.
11. If the needle of the blue gauge did not fall to 28.3hg, the evacuation will have to be aborted as there is a leak in your car or truck A/C system.
12. The leak will have to be found in the A/C system using the UV detector and UV glasses.
13. Once the leak has been found and repaired, continue the evacuation steps as described above for 25 minutes.
14. Front seat (close) the hand valves on the blue and red gauges and observe the needle on the blue gauge.
15. The needle should hold steady at 29hg, indicating a tight system with no leaks.
16. Any needle movement toward "0" on the blue "low-side" gauge would indicate a leak in the system and the evacuation would have to be aborted and conduct a search for the leak.
16.Look in the owners manual or service manual for the factory recommended refrigerant charge. It is usually from 16 to 28 ounces.
17.Attach the can tap valve to a can of refrigerant Make sure that the tap valve hand valve is front seated (closed).
18. Turn the A/C control switch to the "ON" position and blower switch to "high".
19. Start the engine and run at 1500rpm's.
20. Place the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water. Warning: Do not invert the can for this process as liquid would enter the system and ruin the reed valves of the compressor.
21. Continue this process until the factory charge (approximately 2 1/2 cans) has entered the system.
22. Shutoff your car or truck engine and let the A/C system stabilize. When the readings on the red and blue gauges are equal, remove the blue "low-side" hose from the service valve.
23. Restart the engine and remove the red "high-side" hose from the service valve.
24. Close the hood and take your car or truck for a three (3) mile test drive.
25. Place an instant read or digital thermometer in the vent register in the passenger compartment.
26. The temperature should range from 38 to 42 degrees F on a 90-degree day.
Tools and Materials
1. Manifold gauge set
2. Vacuum pump
3. Hand tools
4. Battery powered UV leak detector
5. Can tap valve
6. 134A refrigerant dye
7. 134A refrigerant
8. Instant read temperature thermometer
9. Digital temperature thermometer
Darell L Rains is a technical writer, and author of two (2) Appliance Repair Manuals titled (1)"The Common Sense Approach to Appliance Repair" and (2) "Major Home Appliances A Common Sense Repair Manual".
He is the Webmaster of Darell's VW TDI Maintenance Page. For additional information on this subject URL: http://www.vwtdirepair.com/
Auto Repair Manual
When your car or truck A/C is not blowing "cold air", the first thought is to panic. $$$$ signs are going through your mind. Your A/C is broken and the repair is going to be expensive. This article takes the mystery out of automotive air conditioning and serves as a primer so that you can make common repairs yourself and save MONEY on professional repairs.
A/C Principles
There are books and publications that contain volumes of information on the subject of air conditioning repair. This information is often too technical for the you to learn how-to fix your auto air conditioning system.
In the nutshell, here is all that you need to know about the fundamentals of refrigeration so that you can fix your auto air conditioning system yourself.
Air conditioning is the process in which air inside the passenger compartment is cooled, dried, and circulated. Heat is removed from inside the vehicle and transferred to the outside air.
All air conditioners whether, it is an auto A/C, household refrigerator or home HVAC, work on the same principles. Namely, a liquid refrigerant is changed to a gas and then back to a liquid. If a change-of-state of the refrigerant is to take place, heat transfer must take place. The two (2) rules that apply to refrigerant are:
1. Refrigerant in a gaseous state collects, absorbs, and holds heat.
2. Refrigerant in a liquid state releases that heat.
A/C Operation and Components
For your auto A/C to blow "cold air", R-134A refrigerant must pass through and change state in three (3) components, one (1) receiver-dryer, and one (1) expansion valve that makes up the closed auto air conditioning system. The components of the system are:
1. Compressor - A device that pressurizes the heated refrigerant..
2. Condenser - A radiator for refrigerant that transfers the heat that was absorbed in the passenger compartment to the cooler air.
3. Evaporator - Is a small radiator located under dash in the passenger compartment. Liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator creates a pressure loss. The liquid refrigerant absorbs heat from the air blowing across the evaporator. It then boils and changes state to vapor before it enters the suction port of the compressor.
4. Receiver-Dryer - Is a canister that stores the liquid refrigerant when the compressor is not running. It contains a desiccant that removes moisture from the system.
5. Expansion Valve - Is a metering device that controls the amount of refrigerant to the evaporator.
A/C Quick Check
A check that can easily be made to check the health of the A/C system is the "feel check". With engine running, turn the auto A/C control to "ON" and the blower on "high". Take a test drive to warm the engine until the A/C system pressures stabilize. Raise the hood. With the A/C "On", locate the large tubing connected and routed from the compressor (low side) to the expansion valve (inlet side) of the evaporator. Next, locate the small tubing that is connected to the discharge-side of the compressor and routed to the outlet side of the evaporator. When you feel these two (2) lines, you should observe these results:
1. The low-side line should feel "cool" to the touch.
2. The high-side line should feel "warm" to the touch.
If the high-side tubing is not warm and the low-side is not cool, further tests will have to be made as the system is not doing any work. There is an internal problem; such as, a defective component or a leak in your A/C system.
Testing A/C System
Before system temperature tests can be made, a checklist should be followed (below) to setup for testing the A/C system:
1. Set the A/C "ON-OFF" switch to "ON".
2. Set the temperature control to "maximum cooling".
3. Set the blower on "high" or the highest number on the control switch.
4. Temperature inside passenger compartment should be stable and getting cooler.
5. Engine speed must be a minimum of 1500 rpm's.
6. All windows should be be in the "UP" position.
Check Temperature
Your compact car or truck has a small capacity A/C system and a loss of "cooling" would be more noticeable than a larger capacity auto A/C system. If a noticeable loss of "cooling" capacity is noticed, a temperature check at the vent registers should be made. This check can be made with an instant read or digital temperature thermometer.. The discharge air from the vents in the passenger compartment should range from 38 to 42 degrees F.
A/C System Diagnosis
Assuming that the discharge air test measured at the vent registers is out-of-range, a system pressure test will have to be made. Professional A/C technicians connect a tool known as the manifold gauge set to the "low" and "high" side service valves of the system. For you to diagnose and look inside the A/C, it will be necessary to become proficient in the use of the manifold gauge set.
A manifold gauge set that is suitable for the needs can be purchased at most auto supply stores and Internet A/C tool and supply store fronts for less than $50.00. TIP: Look for a gauge set that has a built-in sight glass.
Locate the "low" and "high" side service valves.. Connect the hoses (they are a snap connector fit) to the service valves in the following manner:.
1. Connect the blue hose of the gauge set to the "low-side" service valve of the compressor.
2. Connect the red hose of the gauge set to the "high-side service valve of the compressor.
3. The yellow hose of the gauge set is connected to a vacuum pump or a refrigerant can to add refrigerant to the system. The yellow hose is not connected to the system at this time.
Static Test
If you find an out-of-range temperature reading, the manifold gauge set should be installed on the "low" and "high-side" service valves. With the engine "OFF" and the compressor and clutch not engaged, the blue "low-side" and red "high-side" gauges should show equal readings of approximately 80 to 120psi. These readings would indicate that there is a refrigerant charge in your A/C system. If the readings were 50psi on each gauge, this would indicate that there is refrigerant in the system but a LOW CHARGE. If the readings were 10 to 20psi on each gauge would indicate that there is little or no refrigerant in your A/C system.
Engine Running Test
Start the engine,.turn the A/C switch"ON" with the blower on "high" and run for a minimum of fifteen (15) minutes. Observe the reading on the manifold gauge set. TIP: A manifold gauge set with a built-in sight glass (mentioned above) will save you diagnostic time as most A/C systems do not have a sight glass built-in the receiver-dryer on the high side of the system.
With this feature, you look for bubbling refrigerant oil and refrigerant in the sight glass on the manifold. Oil moving through the glass would indicate that the compressor and clutch are engaged. Refrigerant is being moved from the low-side throughout the A/C system in the refrigeration cycle.
Low Charge
With the engine running, A/C switch "ON", and the manifold gauge set installed, a "low-side" pressure reading of 20psi over 150psi would indicate that your A/C system has a LOW CHARGE. The low reading of 150psi on the "high-side" gauge would be the tell tale that the system is doing very little work. A LOW CHARGE usually is an indicator that there is a refrigerant leak from a component on the "low" or "high-side" of the A/C system. A refrigerant leak in the system would have to be repaired for the A/C system to blow "cold air". TIP: REFRIGERANT DOES NOT WEAR OUT, IT LEAKS OUT. Some symptoms to look for a LOW CHARGE condition are:
1. Compressor clutch short cycling.
2. Clutch will not engage.
3. Little or no cooling.
4. Oily residue on hoses and components.
Leak Checking
For your A/C system to blow "cold air", refrigerant leaks will have to be found and repaired. Usually, leaks in an A/C system are minor and can be fixed with a screwdriver or hand tools. Most A/C systems use schrader valves for easy connection of the manifold gauge set. That said, these are no more than overgrown bicycle valves that use a valve core. When you are checking a system, the valves are the first place check for a leak. Other targets; such as, oil residue on hoses connected to the compressor is the second place that should be checked. TIP: When tightening the bolts to the suction and discharge ports of the compressor with hand tools, do not over tighten. Rubber 0-rings are placed on the suction and discharge ports of the compressor for sealing. The seals will create a leak when over tightened. Only tighten snug.
When your A/C system has a LOW CHARGE, a refrigerant charge will have to added to check for the leak. Refrigerant that contains a dye for leak checking a system is used for this purpose. The manifold gauge set, refrigerant, and a can tap valve will be needed to add refrigerant to check for a leak in the system.
Connect the manifold gauge set as discussed above. Connect the yellow hose to the can tap valve and front seat (turn clockwise) the valve. Close the blue gauge on the manifold gauge set. Open the valve on the can tap valve. Slowly open the valve on the blue or "low-side" gauge and let the refrigerant flow from the refrigerant can into the system until you see a reading of 60psi on the "low-side" gauge. TIP: Placing the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water will allow the vapor refrigerant to enter the A/C system quicker. WARNING: Do not invert the refrigerant can. Doing so will allow liquid refrigerant to enter the system resulting in a ruined compressor.
Professional A/C technicians use an electronic leak detector to find leaks in an system. Use a battery-powered UV leak detector kit and special UV glasses. This kit can be purchased at auto supply stores and Internet A/C supply store fronts.
The UV glasses should be worn when checking for leaks. Simply place the tip of the detector on a fitting or connection to each component to be checked in the A/C system. When a leak is found, a light greenish color will be seen through the UV glasses.
Air Flow
An often overlooked cause of your A/C system not blowing "cold air" is debris that clogs the condenser. Bugs, plastic bags, and leaves from city and highway driving will prevent air from passing through the fins of the condenser. The condenser should be cleaned with a cleaning solvent. Bent fins on the condenser should be straightened with a fin comb.
Restrictions
A restriction is a condition that is a blockage. Usually, it is traced to the outlet side of the condenser. Some form of debris has formed causing a restriction of refrigerant flow through the condenser tubes.. The passages in the tubes of most condensers that are used in compact cars and trucks are very small. An effective way to diagnose a restriction in your A/C system is the manifold gauge set. The "high-side" (red) gauge would move into the DANGER zone, over 300psi.
System Repairs
When a system has been opened, and a component removed, moisture has entered the system. For your A/C to blow "cold air", that moisture will have to be removed with the aid of a vacuum pump.
At this stage of the repair, you have two (2) choices to finish the repair of your A/C system. The first choice is take the car or truck to an A/C professional. At their shop, they will evacuate the system, check your work, and recharge the A/C system for a fee.
The second choice is to repair your A/C system yourself. You will need to borrow or buy a vacuum pump to finish the repair. A small 2-stage vacuum pump that is designed for automobile refrigeration systems is available for less than $100.00.
After replacing a component, moisture has entered the system during the repair. For the A/C system to blow "cold air" the moisture will have to be removed. Install the manifold gauge set to your car or truck service valves as described above. After repairs, your A/C system is evacuated and recharged by applying the below steps:
1. Blue hose to the "low-side" service valve.
2. Red hose to the "high-side service valve.
3. Yellow hose to the suction port of the vacuum pump.
4. Close the hand valve to the vacuum pump.
5. Back seat (open) the hand valves on the blue and red gauges of the manifold gauge set.
6. Connect the electrical power to the vacuum pump.
7. Open the hand valve on the vacuum pump.
8. Run the vacuum pump for three (3) minutes.
9. The needle on the "low-side" gauge (blue) show should be in a vacuum at 28.3hg.
10. A system with no leaks will pull a vacuum of 28.3hg in three (3) minutes.
11. If the needle of the blue gauge did not fall to 28.3hg, the evacuation will have to be aborted as there is a leak in your car or truck A/C system.
12. The leak will have to be found in the A/C system using the UV detector and UV glasses.
13. Once the leak has been found and repaired, continue the evacuation steps as described above for 25 minutes.
14. Front seat (close) the hand valves on the blue and red gauges and observe the needle on the blue gauge.
15. The needle should hold steady at 29hg, indicating a tight system with no leaks.
16. Any needle movement toward "0" on the blue "low-side" gauge would indicate a leak in the system and the evacuation would have to be aborted and conduct a search for the leak.
16.Look in the owners manual or service manual for the factory recommended refrigerant charge. It is usually from 16 to 28 ounces.
17.Attach the can tap valve to a can of refrigerant Make sure that the tap valve hand valve is front seated (closed).
18. Turn the A/C control switch to the "ON" position and blower switch to "high".
19. Start the engine and run at 1500rpm's.
20. Place the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water. Warning: Do not invert the can for this process as liquid would enter the system and ruin the reed valves of the compressor.
21. Continue this process until the factory charge (approximately 2 1/2 cans) has entered the system.
22. Shutoff your car or truck engine and let the A/C system stabilize. When the readings on the red and blue gauges are equal, remove the blue "low-side" hose from the service valve.
23. Restart the engine and remove the red "high-side" hose from the service valve.
24. Close the hood and take your car or truck for a three (3) mile test drive.
25. Place an instant read or digital thermometer in the vent register in the passenger compartment.
26. The temperature should range from 38 to 42 degrees F on a 90-degree day.
Tools and Materials
1. Manifold gauge set
2. Vacuum pump
3. Hand tools
4. Battery powered UV leak detector
5. Can tap valve
6. 134A refrigerant dye
7. 134A refrigerant
8. Instant read temperature thermometer
9. Digital temperature thermometer
Darell L Rains is a technical writer, and author of two (2) Appliance Repair Manuals titled (1)"The Common Sense Approach to Appliance Repair" and (2) "Major Home Appliances A Common Sense Repair Manual".
He is the Webmaster of Darell's VW TDI Maintenance Page. For additional information on this subject URL: http://www.vwtdirepair.com/
Auto Repair Manual
Saturday, January 8, 2022
Car Scratches - Easy Way to Repair Them
By Brenda Williams
We've all had it happen or seen it happen- you've just bought a brand new car and are coming out of the grocery store only to find that someone nicked the side of one of your car doors. You had taken every pain to park in such a way that this wouldn't happen. You even have those door bumper guards to prevent this very situation! But, alas, there it is, a giant scratch just staring you in the face. As you look around, angrily, for the person responsible for this damage, you can't help but wonder how this could've been prevented.
There is nothing worse than discovering a scratch on your car, especially if it is a fairly new vehicle. A small scratch might not seem like a big deal to the casual observer but to a car owner the scratch could be maddening. Most car owners hate seeing a flaw on their vehicle but often do not want to invest time and money on such a small repair. In the past a car scratch meant a visit to the local auto body shot but these days there are other alternatives.
A variety of easy to use touch up paints have been created with small scratches in mind. These paints are perfect for covering up minor scratches, chips, and other flaws that need to be repaired with paint. Since these touch up paints can usually be applied with pen or spray applicators anyone can use them regardless of their painting or auto body repair experience.
When getting ready to purchase touch paint for your car it is extremely important that you choose the correct paint color. Selecting, and applying, the wrong paint code could actually draw attention to the area you are trying to conceal rather than hiding it. Some vehicles come with repair manuals that will provide you with the correct paint code shade. If you do not have a repair manual visit the car manufactures web site and find your cars model and year. The web site will provide you with the exact paint code of your vehicle since manufactures realize that it is often necessary to repaint vehicles for various reasons.
Triangle Rent A Car Discount Programs and Triangle Rent A Car Specials
Auto Repair Manual
We've all had it happen or seen it happen- you've just bought a brand new car and are coming out of the grocery store only to find that someone nicked the side of one of your car doors. You had taken every pain to park in such a way that this wouldn't happen. You even have those door bumper guards to prevent this very situation! But, alas, there it is, a giant scratch just staring you in the face. As you look around, angrily, for the person responsible for this damage, you can't help but wonder how this could've been prevented.
There is nothing worse than discovering a scratch on your car, especially if it is a fairly new vehicle. A small scratch might not seem like a big deal to the casual observer but to a car owner the scratch could be maddening. Most car owners hate seeing a flaw on their vehicle but often do not want to invest time and money on such a small repair. In the past a car scratch meant a visit to the local auto body shot but these days there are other alternatives.
A variety of easy to use touch up paints have been created with small scratches in mind. These paints are perfect for covering up minor scratches, chips, and other flaws that need to be repaired with paint. Since these touch up paints can usually be applied with pen or spray applicators anyone can use them regardless of their painting or auto body repair experience.
When getting ready to purchase touch paint for your car it is extremely important that you choose the correct paint color. Selecting, and applying, the wrong paint code could actually draw attention to the area you are trying to conceal rather than hiding it. Some vehicles come with repair manuals that will provide you with the correct paint code shade. If you do not have a repair manual visit the car manufactures web site and find your cars model and year. The web site will provide you with the exact paint code of your vehicle since manufactures realize that it is often necessary to repaint vehicles for various reasons.
Triangle Rent A Car Discount Programs and Triangle Rent A Car Specials
Auto Repair Manual
Friday, January 7, 2022
Auto Repair Estimates and Car Repair Prices - The Real Information to Avoid Car Repair Scams
By Theodore Olson
RepairTrust
Making sense of Car Repair Prices
Ted Olson is the founder of RepairTrust - a web site designed to empower the car repair customer.
Auto Repair Manual
Worrying whether or not you were overcharged for your car repair is an awful feeling. There’s tons of advice on how to avoid getting ripped-off, but few discuss the actual car repair prices. We really need to look at the charges on a car repair estimate or auto repair invoice to determine if we’re paying too much.
The focus needs to shift from giving outdated and ineffective advice to addressing the specific charges. Are they legitimate charges? Can they be justified by industry guidelines?
Now car repair estimates can be confusing. So let’s break it down to get a better idea if your auto repair shop is billing you appropriately.
First, a glossary of terms is in order, as the auto industry has a language of its own…
Aftermarket Parts: parts not made by or for the manufacturer.
MSRP: Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price
OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer. Manufacturer approved parts designed specifically for your vehicle.
TSBs: Technical Service Bulletins. Notes and instructions provided by the manufacturer for known and specific concerns (they are not recalls).
Flat Fees: services such as alignments that don't get broken down into parts, tax, labor
Miscellaneous Charges: these can include, but are not limited to shop supplies - rags, chemicals, hazardous waste disposal fees, waste oil ...etc.
Labor Rate: a repair center’s hourly charge to service your vehicle
Labor Time: the amount of time or hours determined that it will take to fix your vehicle
Labor Description: the step-by-step written details of repairs and/or services
Ok, let’s look at the Anatomy of an Auto Repair Estimate:
There are six basic components to a car repair estimate
1) Customer/Vehicle Information
2) Parts
3) Labor
4) Miscellaneous Charges
5) Flat Fees
6) Summary of Charges
Customer and Vehicle Information
Using a generic “top down” style estimate, the top portion simply contains your personal information and your vehicle's specifics: year, make, model, mileage...etc, as well as your request or concern.
We also want find the shop's labor rate. The labor rate is critical in determining if you paid too much. Most repair centers don't list the labor rate. We'll discuss why shortly.
Auto Parts
Parts are listed usually with a brief description, as well as the quantity, and the price. There are three types of parts: OEM (parts made by or for a manufacturer). These are the parts installed by a dealer, although many local shops use OEM parts too.
Aftermarket parts are non OEM parts, and there are various degrees of quality, depending on the brand and where they’re made – China versus USA, for example.
Then there are Used parts purchased from a salvage yard.
To determine if you paid too much for parts, first find out what type of parts are being used. With OEM parts, you don’t want to pay more than MSRP, although most people do without realizing it. Premium aftermarket parts are similarly priced across brands, although beware not to pay more than MSRP, which again, many folks do. Used parts prices are all over the place, so pick the price in the middle.
Auto Repair Labor
Labor is billed in tenths. So 1.0 equals 1 hour. 1.5 equals an hour and a half.
Labor rates range from $60 to $100 per hour at local repair shops and $80 to $140 per hour at the dealer level. Labor times are based off established industry guidelines, which are frequently abused.
If you don't see the shop's labor rate posted on the car repair invoice, ask your service center for the rate. Repair shops can manipulate the labor rate (among other things) with a labor matrix. Matrix pricing is a complicated and ethically questionable practice discussed at length in RepairTrust literature. What you need to know is that you can pay as high as $150 per hour rather than the posted labor rate of $105 per hour.
Thus, you'll want to multiply the number of hours billed (which is also often not posted) by the shop's labor rate to determine if you've been charged accordingly.
Most labor descriptions are poorly written and difficult to understand. So ask questions.
Here’s a "clear" labor description for a 30,000 mile service on a Toyota Camry.
The bulk of your car repair invoice will be parts and labor, but we can't forget about Miscellaneous Charges. These charges can include, but are not limited to, shop supplies - rags, chemicals, hazardous waste, disposal fees, waste oil ...etc. The latter of these may be billed out separately in a summary at the bottom of your repair invoice.
Very few of these "extras" are actually used during regular repairs. Miscellaneous charges are calculated off the amount of labor hours billed, not the amount of miscellaneous items used.
Flat Fees
Flat fees can be another very tricky area. Flat fees are services, such as an alignment, which don't get broken down into parts, tax and labor. This makes it difficult to determine the real and fair price. On the plus side, most flat fees are competitively priced.
Be warned however, another term for Flat Fee is called Menu Selling. In other words, you might see Tune Up: $99.99 or Transmission Flush: $89.99. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations only, not a dealer's or repair shop's menu.
For an interesting read on this topic, click
car maintenance costs
Summary of Charges
The last part of an auto repair estimate is the summary of charges. It's usually found in the bottom right hand corner of the invoice. Check it against the charges above to ensure that it all adds up mathematically, as well as logically.
This basic estimate outline may differ from your particular invoice, which may have other categories such as "Sublet" or "HazMat."
A sublet charge is added when your auto repair shop uses another vender to fix or repair your car, such as a glass company that replaces your windshield.
A HazMat charge may include waste oil or other disposal fees. Just make sure that the charges are warranted, as again, they too are often calculated off the labor time rather than actual need.
In sum, understanding the “actual” charges, asking the right questions, and breaking down your auto repair costs is the best way to avoid paying excessive car repair prices.
-Theodore P. Olson (Ted)The focus needs to shift from giving outdated and ineffective advice to addressing the specific charges. Are they legitimate charges? Can they be justified by industry guidelines?
Now car repair estimates can be confusing. So let’s break it down to get a better idea if your auto repair shop is billing you appropriately.
First, a glossary of terms is in order, as the auto industry has a language of its own…
Aftermarket Parts: parts not made by or for the manufacturer.
MSRP: Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price
OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer. Manufacturer approved parts designed specifically for your vehicle.
TSBs: Technical Service Bulletins. Notes and instructions provided by the manufacturer for known and specific concerns (they are not recalls).
Flat Fees: services such as alignments that don't get broken down into parts, tax, labor
Miscellaneous Charges: these can include, but are not limited to shop supplies - rags, chemicals, hazardous waste disposal fees, waste oil ...etc.
Labor Rate: a repair center’s hourly charge to service your vehicle
Labor Time: the amount of time or hours determined that it will take to fix your vehicle
Labor Description: the step-by-step written details of repairs and/or services
Ok, let’s look at the Anatomy of an Auto Repair Estimate:
There are six basic components to a car repair estimate
1) Customer/Vehicle Information
2) Parts
3) Labor
4) Miscellaneous Charges
5) Flat Fees
6) Summary of Charges
Customer and Vehicle Information
Using a generic “top down” style estimate, the top portion simply contains your personal information and your vehicle's specifics: year, make, model, mileage...etc, as well as your request or concern.
We also want find the shop's labor rate. The labor rate is critical in determining if you paid too much. Most repair centers don't list the labor rate. We'll discuss why shortly.
Auto Parts
Parts are listed usually with a brief description, as well as the quantity, and the price. There are three types of parts: OEM (parts made by or for a manufacturer). These are the parts installed by a dealer, although many local shops use OEM parts too.
Aftermarket parts are non OEM parts, and there are various degrees of quality, depending on the brand and where they’re made – China versus USA, for example.
Then there are Used parts purchased from a salvage yard.
To determine if you paid too much for parts, first find out what type of parts are being used. With OEM parts, you don’t want to pay more than MSRP, although most people do without realizing it. Premium aftermarket parts are similarly priced across brands, although beware not to pay more than MSRP, which again, many folks do. Used parts prices are all over the place, so pick the price in the middle.
Auto Repair Labor
Labor is billed in tenths. So 1.0 equals 1 hour. 1.5 equals an hour and a half.
Labor rates range from $60 to $100 per hour at local repair shops and $80 to $140 per hour at the dealer level. Labor times are based off established industry guidelines, which are frequently abused.
If you don't see the shop's labor rate posted on the car repair invoice, ask your service center for the rate. Repair shops can manipulate the labor rate (among other things) with a labor matrix. Matrix pricing is a complicated and ethically questionable practice discussed at length in RepairTrust literature. What you need to know is that you can pay as high as $150 per hour rather than the posted labor rate of $105 per hour.
Thus, you'll want to multiply the number of hours billed (which is also often not posted) by the shop's labor rate to determine if you've been charged accordingly.
Most labor descriptions are poorly written and difficult to understand. So ask questions.
Here’s a "clear" labor description for a 30,000 mile service on a Toyota Camry.
Performed 30,000 mile service per customer request, and in accordance with manufacturer guidelines. Changed oil and filter, installed new air filter, cabin filter and performed all necessary tests, checks, and procedures, including road test (miles 30,123 – 30,125). Performed lubrication services and confirmed proper vehicle operation. Set tire pressures, and checked fluids, belts and hoses. Note: vehicle is pulling slightly left. Needs alignmentMiscellaneous Charges
The bulk of your car repair invoice will be parts and labor, but we can't forget about Miscellaneous Charges. These charges can include, but are not limited to, shop supplies - rags, chemicals, hazardous waste, disposal fees, waste oil ...etc. The latter of these may be billed out separately in a summary at the bottom of your repair invoice.
Very few of these "extras" are actually used during regular repairs. Miscellaneous charges are calculated off the amount of labor hours billed, not the amount of miscellaneous items used.
Flat Fees
Flat fees can be another very tricky area. Flat fees are services, such as an alignment, which don't get broken down into parts, tax and labor. This makes it difficult to determine the real and fair price. On the plus side, most flat fees are competitively priced.
Be warned however, another term for Flat Fee is called Menu Selling. In other words, you might see Tune Up: $99.99 or Transmission Flush: $89.99. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations only, not a dealer's or repair shop's menu.
For an interesting read on this topic, click
car maintenance costs
Summary of Charges
The last part of an auto repair estimate is the summary of charges. It's usually found in the bottom right hand corner of the invoice. Check it against the charges above to ensure that it all adds up mathematically, as well as logically.
This basic estimate outline may differ from your particular invoice, which may have other categories such as "Sublet" or "HazMat."
A sublet charge is added when your auto repair shop uses another vender to fix or repair your car, such as a glass company that replaces your windshield.
A HazMat charge may include waste oil or other disposal fees. Just make sure that the charges are warranted, as again, they too are often calculated off the labor time rather than actual need.
In sum, understanding the “actual” charges, asking the right questions, and breaking down your auto repair costs is the best way to avoid paying excessive car repair prices.
RepairTrust
Making sense of Car Repair Prices
Ted Olson is the founder of RepairTrust - a web site designed to empower the car repair customer.
Auto Repair Manual
Tuesday, January 4, 2022
Car Ding Repair
By Terje Ellingsen
A car ding repair is easy to do if you have a good auto ding repair kit. Such repair kits are not so expensive; about $30 and it’s really easy to used. Such automobile ding repair kids can be purchased at most stores selling car parts or car accessories. The task you have to do is to pull or remove glue from the surface on all panels of the vehicle and most of these cheap ding repair items for sale today are really working for this purpose if the dents or dings are not too big. For small and medium dents or dings, ding puller devices provides a simple, cost efficient removal. Fortunately there is no need to access the underside of the panel.
We see a trend today that more and more vehicle manufactures are using light gauge sheet metal in the construction of vehicles. In fact, it is not difficult to dent many new cars by simply leaning against them. The nice things about these dent/ding out, glue puller kits are that they give the do-it-your-selfers and car amateur enthusiasts a professional option to expensive dent removal services.
There are also different kinds of ding or dent repair kit and each of them offers a tool for specific damage. So you must know which repair kit you need for fixing your specific problem. This is no big deal however, because the only thing you have to do is to tell the sales person in the auto part or accessory store what you'll need to do and he or she will find the dent fix kit for your needs. To cover yourself completely, you can buy several of them, thus having a tool for any ding or dent problem your car might incur. If you purchase three different ding or dent fix kits, you'll have what you need for all types of dent repair.
How to use these kits? Here is what you do:
* apply a bead of glue to the pulling nib
* affix the nib to the lowest area of the dent you're going to fix
* the ding repair tool slips over the threaded stud
* a wing nut tool is threaded down pulling the metal up
* as soon as the dent is pulled out, a couple of drops of a release agent that normally is included in the kit is applied to the glue and the pulling nib will come right off.
These dent fix kits are inexpensive and easy to use and they will not damage your factory finish.
Terje Brooks Ellingsen is a writer and internet publisher. He runs the website cheap-used-cars.w-eland.com. Terje gives advice and helps people with automotive issues like finding cheap car parts online as well as car ding repair and other auto repair issues.
Auto Repair Manual
A car ding repair is easy to do if you have a good auto ding repair kit. Such repair kits are not so expensive; about $30 and it’s really easy to used. Such automobile ding repair kids can be purchased at most stores selling car parts or car accessories. The task you have to do is to pull or remove glue from the surface on all panels of the vehicle and most of these cheap ding repair items for sale today are really working for this purpose if the dents or dings are not too big. For small and medium dents or dings, ding puller devices provides a simple, cost efficient removal. Fortunately there is no need to access the underside of the panel.
We see a trend today that more and more vehicle manufactures are using light gauge sheet metal in the construction of vehicles. In fact, it is not difficult to dent many new cars by simply leaning against them. The nice things about these dent/ding out, glue puller kits are that they give the do-it-your-selfers and car amateur enthusiasts a professional option to expensive dent removal services.
There are also different kinds of ding or dent repair kit and each of them offers a tool for specific damage. So you must know which repair kit you need for fixing your specific problem. This is no big deal however, because the only thing you have to do is to tell the sales person in the auto part or accessory store what you'll need to do and he or she will find the dent fix kit for your needs. To cover yourself completely, you can buy several of them, thus having a tool for any ding or dent problem your car might incur. If you purchase three different ding or dent fix kits, you'll have what you need for all types of dent repair.
How to use these kits? Here is what you do:
* apply a bead of glue to the pulling nib
* affix the nib to the lowest area of the dent you're going to fix
* the ding repair tool slips over the threaded stud
* a wing nut tool is threaded down pulling the metal up
* as soon as the dent is pulled out, a couple of drops of a release agent that normally is included in the kit is applied to the glue and the pulling nib will come right off.
These dent fix kits are inexpensive and easy to use and they will not damage your factory finish.
Terje Brooks Ellingsen is a writer and internet publisher. He runs the website cheap-used-cars.w-eland.com. Terje gives advice and helps people with automotive issues like finding cheap car parts online as well as car ding repair and other auto repair issues.
Auto Repair Manual
Monday, January 3, 2022
Car Interior Repair
By Candis Reade
A new car does not need any car interior repair but as it grows older, you will need to pay special attention. The dashboard, leather items, carpets, seat covers, door panels, etc. need to be either replaced or repaired.
Start the car interior repair from painting the dashboard. First of all, remove all the parts that you can and wash them in warm water with dish soap added to it. Use a soft cloth to clean the other interior parts such as steering wheel, door panels, dashboard, etc. Cover the other areas then rub the plastic parts and affected area with a fine-grade sand paper. Again clean up and apply good quality of primer on the areas you want to paint. Allow to dry and finally apply the proper re-paint color that is specially designed for your car type. A vinyl repair kit is the best option or dash cover is good choice in case of ample damage. Many dash covers are available that can match the carpet color in your car.
The loose headliner at times may be irritating and awkward. The fabric headliners in old cars were not a big problem, but the flabby headliner in modern cars may be disturbing at times specially while driving the car. If not repairable you need to change the whole set and it might cost you a big amount if done from a specialist. The headliner material and replacement kits are easily available in the market and you can easily fix the problem without hiring the professional.
The carpets in your car play an important role in car interior repair. The faded and damaged carpets in your car give a dull feeling inside the car. Replacing the whole carpet on your own can be a good option. Its easy job and many replacement carpets are available in the market that will perfectly fit your car model. You just need to remove the seats, door still plates, center console, and seat belts. The old carpet can be easily removed if not pasted originally. If bonded with some material it may take some time. Finally clean up the floor surface and install the new carpet. You can even follow the detail instructions in the manual provided while buying the carpet.
The car interior repair is incomplete without repairing the damaged leather seat covers. If the tear is small, the vinyl sealant can simply do the job. A vinyl repair kit is available for larger tear. These kits are provided with filler paste in a variety of colors that can match your interior. Also, you have the option of fabric repair kits for small holes in your seat cover. Protecting your seats is vital because it plays a major role while selling the car. The impressive and well-maintained seat covers can always add a great value to your car.
It is not always the case that you need a professional to do the car interior repair. The minor problems can be solved on your own. All types of company kits and manuals are available in the market. Well, one thing is sure the minor problem is the cause of major difficulty in future. Hence, it is important to detect them and repair in the first stage itself.
Candis Reade is an accomplished niche website developer and author. To learn more about Car Interior Repair, please visit Auto Repair Tips for current articles and discussions.
Auto Repair Manual
A new car does not need any car interior repair but as it grows older, you will need to pay special attention. The dashboard, leather items, carpets, seat covers, door panels, etc. need to be either replaced or repaired.
Start the car interior repair from painting the dashboard. First of all, remove all the parts that you can and wash them in warm water with dish soap added to it. Use a soft cloth to clean the other interior parts such as steering wheel, door panels, dashboard, etc. Cover the other areas then rub the plastic parts and affected area with a fine-grade sand paper. Again clean up and apply good quality of primer on the areas you want to paint. Allow to dry and finally apply the proper re-paint color that is specially designed for your car type. A vinyl repair kit is the best option or dash cover is good choice in case of ample damage. Many dash covers are available that can match the carpet color in your car.
The loose headliner at times may be irritating and awkward. The fabric headliners in old cars were not a big problem, but the flabby headliner in modern cars may be disturbing at times specially while driving the car. If not repairable you need to change the whole set and it might cost you a big amount if done from a specialist. The headliner material and replacement kits are easily available in the market and you can easily fix the problem without hiring the professional.
The carpets in your car play an important role in car interior repair. The faded and damaged carpets in your car give a dull feeling inside the car. Replacing the whole carpet on your own can be a good option. Its easy job and many replacement carpets are available in the market that will perfectly fit your car model. You just need to remove the seats, door still plates, center console, and seat belts. The old carpet can be easily removed if not pasted originally. If bonded with some material it may take some time. Finally clean up the floor surface and install the new carpet. You can even follow the detail instructions in the manual provided while buying the carpet.
The car interior repair is incomplete without repairing the damaged leather seat covers. If the tear is small, the vinyl sealant can simply do the job. A vinyl repair kit is available for larger tear. These kits are provided with filler paste in a variety of colors that can match your interior. Also, you have the option of fabric repair kits for small holes in your seat cover. Protecting your seats is vital because it plays a major role while selling the car. The impressive and well-maintained seat covers can always add a great value to your car.
It is not always the case that you need a professional to do the car interior repair. The minor problems can be solved on your own. All types of company kits and manuals are available in the market. Well, one thing is sure the minor problem is the cause of major difficulty in future. Hence, it is important to detect them and repair in the first stage itself.
Candis Reade is an accomplished niche website developer and author. To learn more about Car Interior Repair, please visit Auto Repair Tips for current articles and discussions.
Auto Repair Manual
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